The flight was leaving very early and since we did not know how the domestic travelling worked we decided on getting up early with a taxi at 6 AM already. The airport was already bustling with people when we arrived but checking in (Jonny had actually done that the previous day) and getting my bag dropped off was not that difficult. What was more difficult was understanding the gate system. We got gate “B”. There is no gate “B”, but there is a place called “B” where you wait for your flight to be announced with the correct gate. We got some pretty expensive (and not that good) breakfast before finding the waiting area. Unfortunately Jonny did not feel good, probably fever, and my tummy was not at the best of times either, but we got through it. Later we got onto the right flight to Guadalajara with Volaris.
We arrived in time and took an Über (which was cheap but seemed not to be really legal from the airport) to the hotel. We got there around 12 AM, which was 3 hours before check in time. So we re-packed and left our luggage on the hotel, which was not really in a good neighborhood, but felt really nice. Then we headed out to town to check out Guadalajara.
We headed out to the general plaza and found the city sign. We found an ice cream place which helped Jonny a little, then just next to it was a bar. We stopped by it and had a couple of beers, a few tequila and a fruit drink with tequila. I tried out their toilet, just for a wee, that was… interesting, and if not the worst, then at least one of the worst toilets I’ve ever been to.
We continued to the market Mercado Libertad San Juan de Dios – the biggest market I’ve ever been to! Worth a visit! We continued on and visited a nearby bazar that felt like any market that could be find in an action movie, where the heroes are chased by bad guys through dodgy places. After going towards the hotel since neither me nor Jonny felt that well, we ended up at Plaza de las 9 Esquinas and the restaurant Birrireria las 9 Esquinas. This felt like a Spanish plaza, real cozy. Afterwards we went back to the hotel to check in and just have a comfy evening. Later on Jonny went to buy some beer and tequila, and even later I went to look for an open farmacia (and after a long walk I ended up at a Wallmart) to get some pills for Jonny (and perhaps me). Let’s hope we’ll not be sick enough to not be able to visit a distillery.
Both me and Jonny had already checked out Xochimilco with
the boats through the canals that had supplied both the old civilisation but
also the modern, with water and plentiful of land to grow produce. We had also
chatted with Antonio and his girlfriend a few days ago about visiting it, so
since we used one day to visit two days of tourist places, it was the perfect
day to visit Xochimilco.
After some coffee and breakfast (avocado toast for Jonny and
eggs and toast for me) we travelled first by metro to the end station Tasqueña
and then by railbus to endstation Xochimilco. In Tasqueña we had to buy CDXM
(Cuidad de Mexico) bus cards to continue on, and then load them up with 3 pesos
per person per trip. When trying to buy the card from the ticket teller, she
held up a handwritten post-it note telling us to give money to someone with a
card to get through to the railbus. We stood hand-fallen a short while until
the security guard called on us and gave us his card. We then went to fill it
up with 6 pesos so that we could pass the gates. After we got through the gates
a young lady (yes, I call her a young lady, a pretty little thing with a ring
on her left hand ring finger) came up to us and gave us a CDMX bus card to use.
She was not the first one that had showed us kindness in Mexico, and hopefully
not the last – all countries, all places will somehow, somewhen show you the
best of her at some time.
Arriving at Xochimilco we were pretty much accosted directly by people wanting to lead us to their boats. I felt a bit strange in my tummy and I don’t like those types of persistent tourist gatherers, so we went left and right and not the way the “guide” wanted us and ended up at a restaurant. There we stayed for a cerveza and some soup (Jonny looked, talked and somehow chose). The owners were really likable even if they did not now a word of English (at least that’s what they said) and we did not understand much Spanish.
We walked on and after following the signs to Embaracadero de Touristo, we decided to check out Embaracadero Nativitas Zapaca instead (that we found on Google maps). It took a while to walk there, but it was nice and warm weather and we were not in any hurry. Entering the area, the second thing we say (the first being a big sign) was a pile of trash. Later we understood it was due to that the Sunday festivities in these areas are real popular for the natives.
Of course we got a salesperson trying us out right away,
which actually talked English, and that we turned away after a short
discussion. He told us that since it was not a Sunday (where we could have
gotten on a boat with others for not that many pesos) we had to pay 500 pesos
for an hour for one boat (or the double for two hours). We walked a bit for the
sights and discussed the proposition, going along the canal and the stalls.
After not finding any place selling beer, we got back to the boat area and our “guide”
go to us once again. This was the third time and we told him that we had
decided to skip the ride since we believed that is was too expensive. Suddenly
the price was down to 350 pesos for an hour, which we accepted.
So for 30 minutes our boat handler staked us slowly forward on the canal. We saw restaurants, back yards and flower gardens on land, slowly moving water, tourist boats, boats with musicians and boats selling food, drinks and other stuff on the water. Then after 30 minutes we turned around and went back the same way.
We walked back towards the bus/railway station, but decided on checking out the places they had earlier tried to herd us to. I do think that we made the correct decision on skipping these, even if they would have cost us the same amount per hour. On the way back we passed by the local or public indoor market and decided to check it out. The public markets have everything in one place, clothes, fruits, meats, fish, spices, restaurants, all mixed together. Jonny was so tempted to try out one of the small restaurants so we stopped at one at random. Ordering by looking at what was on offer worked out fairly well. We also had some company for the meal, the owners kids and their friends who tried to speak to us in Spanish.
The food was ok and we tried out the non-alcoholic beverage Boing! After this we went back with railbus and metro but got off at a new station that we had not tried before, Revolución, and walked pass the Plaza de la Republica with a massive monument. The Mexicans really like monuments! On the way back to the hotel we also stopped for a couple of beers at HOP.
We had in mind to make two days in the city and this would be visiting Zócalo and some of the sights, including museums around the central parts. After some googling for a brunch place to get Jonny to taste Huevos Rancheros, we took to the streets. The weather was still awesome, approx. 17-18 degrees Celsius at 9 AM, so getting out in shorts and short sleeved shirt was not a problem, especially since we knew that it go up to 26-28 degree Celsius later in the day.
We got out and walked towards the city center, we could have
taken a bus or a metro but it really was not that long to walk and the
possibility to see more of the city was enticing. The closer we got to the
center, the more people and later on also lots of ladies wearing pink training
t-shirts (which we later found out had been part of a 5 km race, the ladies,
not the shirts).
On our way towards the big plaza – Zócalo – and close by the places that I had picked out for Sunday breakfast/brunch, we saw loads of beautiful buildings, parks, but also many derelict places. Along the way we felt safe enough even though we may have passed some poorer districts. We passed by Palacio de Bellas Artes towards restaurant El Mayor that have outside rooftop seating’s with a view of the old ruins of Temple Mayor. On the way there we passed by Café El Popular, both places had queues and so did a third place that I seem to have forgotten the name of. So we took a random place to get some eggs and Mexican coffee along with a dessert of churros.
Along the way we had experienced the market Mercado de San Juan, which was hectic and had too many shouting salesmen/women, also the big plaza Zócalo with the ENORMOUS Mexican flag, checked out the temple ruins along with the nearby church that was built of the stones of the ancient indian buildings (including the temple). After our breakfast we went to Palacio de Bellas Artes and since it was a Sunday it was free entrance.
We stayed a while in the park Alameda Central checking out
all tourists and natives. Then we continued our cultural trip by visiting the
Laboratorio Arte Alameda and the Diego Riveria Mural Museum where we go to
listen to a Spanish (or Mexican) opera singer accompanied by a piano player.
After a short pit stop with cervezas and guacamole we got on the metro towards
the park Bosque de Chapultepec.
This part was supposed to be visited on the second city day, but we were out of ideas and Jonny wanted to use the third day to visit Xochimilco. When getting off the train and walking up to the park, we were greeted by loads of people, it seemed that Sundays were real popular day to visit the park for the Mexico City population. There were performers and people but also so many stall selling food, candy and unnecessary stuff for children (and adults). Since I wanted to visit Castilla de Chapultepec, we took the long but easy walkway up the hill. Even though all signs and all information was in Spanish, it was still really nice to experience this castle and all the historic memorabilia that was gathered there. Then the actual building and the view from the top of the hill down on the city of Mexico, was also really nice.
We stayed for approx. 1.5 hours until closure time at 5 PM,
then we went down the easy walkway slope, leading to the two lakes that had
been visible from the castle. Here we enjoyed the sights of clown performers
and all the natives just enjoying their free Sunday.
Later on we walked down one of the big roads (that lead
to/from the park) without a specific goal in mind. Some time later we stopped
to rest our feet (and Jonny to change into his shoes) – both of us had in some
way small damages on our feet after having walked for two days. There we
decided to go to a taqueria that I had marked as a want to. On the way close to
a very pretty roundabout, we stopped at a bar for margaritas. The bar La
Cerveceria de Barrio – Cibeles, was more of a posh place even if it did not
look it, but with the native visitors and prices it could be deducted.
Not far from the bar was the taqueria El Faraón, where they served tacos with meat only (and cheese as an option) and the mandatory salsas. The tacos were really good since the meats were superb and vegetables were not needed. Both me and Jonny did make a small mistake, one with one salsa, the other with another salsa, but the salsas were good, if hot.
It was still time before heading back, so I convinced Jonny to take a small walk to a bar, La Botica, that specialized in Mezcal. This was in the middle of a dark Sunday evening in a fairly quiet Mexico City, still we felt very secure walking (not fully sober) about the different neighborhoods. The bar was just a small hole in the wall, but with seats outside. The menu was handwritten on cardboard and then taped to keep dry. I guess there was about 40+ different Mezcals on the menu. We stayed for a few and then moved a few bars down the street for a last cerveza before getting an Über to the hotel.
First day in Mexico City and we had decided to go to the old indian pyramids outside of San Juan. To get there we had to go by bus. We headed out walking towards the metro station and at the same time on the look out for breakfast and coffee. On the way, in a quiet Mexico City, we found an open taqueria street stand and got tacos for breakfast. We got down to the Metro and payed the enormous cum of 5 pesos per person to use the subway. We had to switch lines during the trip to Terminales de Norte, and we could not help but notice the odd or rather different trains that had bus wheels. Also something different where the persons selling all different stuff in the wagons, a little annoying.
When we arrived at the bus terminal we finally found a coffee shop and go the first dose of the black gold for the day (Jonny also got a pastry to fit his coffee). Finding the gate (#8) and the disks where tickets were sold, was not difficult, neither was buying the roundtrip tickets. Going through the gate to the buses required going through a metal detector and being patted down – because everyone was beeped – the security guards probably looking for guns. There was already a few lines and buses for Las Piramidas (and San Juan). We did not get on the first ones and when our bus finally arrived, well it was not the most fancy and modern one, but we did get a seat (which not everyone did). Standing up in a bus for one hour would not have been very lovely. The bus took us north, 30 minutes to get out of the city, where we saw the many hills surrounding the city and also the colourful parts of the hill houses, that looked a little like the Brazilian favelas.
Stepping out of the bus around 11 am into the already very warm and sunny dale of Las Piramidas, we directly put on sun screen lotion. We went right to the administrative part and climbed one pyramid with a second one just behind it. In the distance we could see the pyramids of the sun and the moon. Already from this very small pyramid I got a little shaky when walking down the steep steps, and starting to wonder if I would be able to make it to the top of the Sun pyramid (that Jonny really wanted). This pyramid is the third highest in the world and possibly the highest that still is legal to climb.
We continued towards the sun pyramid, the sights, 2400 years old, awesome to see. At the same time that I admired the pyramids we continued down the way of the dead. Coming up to the Sun pyramid we could see that the pyramid actually had ropes along the steep stairs and that there were really many people going up and down the steps to the top. Since Jonny wanted to, I gave the stairs a shot. It’s never been my problem going upwards, so after a while I took a look down and decide to go a little further. After getting up to the first ledge I also decided to continue up to the top. When getting up there and being able to see the sights and trying to imagine the splendour that the city must have been, the climb was worth it, and I also hoped that the climb down would be.
I can only recommend visiting the pyramids if you are close
by and have the time. To note is that water, snacks, sun screen, good shoes and
possibly a hat is a must to visit.
Later we got on the bus to go back to the city. When we were almost to the bus station I mentioned that it would be really good with a cerveza. Minutes later we passed a brewery and the bus stopped. We decided real quick to visit the brewery and rushed to get off the bus and into the Beef Factory were we had a sampler, some food and more beer.
Afterwards we headed to a nearby mall to get me a Mexican TelCel sim card with data traffic, since the roaming and packages from Telenor were expensive. I got really good help with the card at the TelCel store, even though only one of the workers spoke English. This mall and area was in a very good neighbourhood, showing the differences of Mexican society. On our way back the hotel we stopped at a crafts bar that I had notice in the morning while having breakfast. The bar HOP: The beer experience was just a hole in the wall, but cosy and nice. After a few beers and a shot of Mescal, while I was in the restroom, Jonny go to talk to Antonio and his girlfriend (she said her name twice but I still could not hear it correctly). They were really nice and we made it a night with multiple beer and Mescal shots with them before parting ways and going back to the hotel for the night.
Jonny had fixed the overnight room of his apartment building for me to use, unfortunately it did not help my sleep that much. So when waking up at 5:45 am I was a bit tired.
We got an Über to the airport instead of travelling by Flygbussarna or metro+express. If we’re going to go in class, we need to start right away… After a swift bag drop we headed for the Fast track through security and on to the SAS lounge. Some breakfast later (and both beer & wine for Jonny) we left for boarding our flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa.
The boarding went well but there were some chaos in business class just beside me when passengers tried to sit in 4A (which was the gate, not their seat) as well as a fellow trying to squeeze in to the empty middle seat between two business travelers. A while later in the air the breakfast was served that contained a lot of milk products. So I had to get a glass of wine to balance the milk protein (and a second serving later on).
We landed in Frankfurt and directly made our way towards the “duty free” store due to that I had to purchase some facial & body products. On the way through terminal A we noticed a way to terminal B and the gate B26, but since neither me or Jonny remembered how terminal B was setup we continued first to the shop where I noticed a 2 or 3 L bottle of Hendricks, and then to the lounge. At the lounge we were told that there was actually a lounge at terminal B as well, so we headed there, through the loooooooong underground passage.
We stayed at the lounge, drinking some alcoholic beverages, eating more or less, charging our devices until boarding time, which was not boarding time. The reason being that the original aircraft was damaged/broken, which we later found out was due to thunderstorms. So the boarding was one hour later (or one hour with more lounge time), and we boarded to the business class section.
I wonder how I will ever be able to sit in coach after this…
It’s spacious, the service is recommendable, food is on plates using real cutlery, drinks in glasses and ceramic cups.
Oh my goodness!
Our hostess, Agnes ??, no, that was not it, was very helpful (and pretty) and Jonny also got the attention of the cabin hostess who was from Turkey. We got more then our share of food and drinks, some were better then others. The best of flying business? The space, to sit, relax and foremost ability to sleep, laying down! Then comes the service with the food on real plates and all that. Unfortunately the WC’s are the same size as in coach.
We land approx 40 minutes late at Mexico City Airport and went right ahead towards the enormously long line for immigration. Fortunately we found the automatic machines and suddenly we were waiting for our bags. The customs, well, there were not really any customs.
We decided to get a taxi to the hotel, and this had to be pre-paid, but that went smooth. So did the taxi ride, sort of. It went fast, really fast, and the driver had some beef with another truck driver, a few extremely close calls to be in an accident, but we got to the hotel.
After checking in and noticing that our safe did not work, we went out to see some sights and to the first taco for the trip. Even if it was a Friday night we did not stay out, both of us tired and knowing that a long Saturday lay ahead of us.
An early morning was already planned since I needed to wash my clothes before leaving on vacation. Due to this I had also planned (definitively not in this order) a visit to my foot specialist, buying (replacing my awesome golden case) a new phone case, pack everything, water and put the plants in the bathtub (let’s hope that’s enough for four weeks of abandonment, otherwise Fredrik’s plants finally died on me) and of course going to the hairdresser.
Now, one may think, what about the chili plants, how will they survive?! The careful care of them along with one of the mothers were already last Friday transferred to Marika (a close colleague with the love of gardening), whom I trust will care real good for them.
Then I had some extra – planned of course – time to clean the apartment and put on some new bed linens, so that when I get home I don’t have to bother with that. A shout out and big thanks to my mum for getting that tradition imprinted in my mind since we were kids.
Then around 3 pm it was time to get moving, for sure, it was a little bit early but I’d not flown out from Malmö Airport for quite some time. I went there by the Flygbussarna and arrived a little after 4 pm, with a light package – the bag looks full & heavy but only weighed in on 12 kg. My carry-on felt heavier with all the technology necessary (?) for a trip like this.
After the mandatory vacation drink I boarded the Norwegian aircraft for Stockholm.
A while later I arrived to Stockholm Central by the Arlanda Express and Jonny was waiting on the platform to welcome me to the Capital. We bought some food to-go for dinner and headed off to Axelsberg. The risotto and cured meat dinner tasted well enough along with some red wine and then Jonny started his packing procedure.
After having been to London for both pleasure and business (a Gartner conference) for five days, I arrived home around 11 pm.
With a glass of newly purchased Red Label, I started to look into the best and easiest way for my private data traffic in Mexico. It did not take long before I found two different ways to go ahead with. The easiest being using the operator TelCal’s stores, the other using Oxxo (Mexican version of 7/11). The sim card would be bought with a 1,5GB data plan for 200 pesos, that probably would work in Canada as well.
Another good thing about thing was that my new company phone, Samsung Galaxy S9, supports dual sim, but, that means forsaking the use of the SD-card. So of course, instructions for using duplicate sims were needed and found, before heading to bed.
