Travel with Hofvanders

Waking up to a gloomy sky – or rather, the sky is only visible when standing on the toilette, so either I put my head outside of the room or, well, into the bathroom. Checking the wide world web and it shows me that it’s going to be thunderstorms during the day and night. So therefor I decide against renting a scooter for the day. But I do decide to look up on rentals during the day.

For breakfast I go to the Q’Bravo but it only seats a few guests and after trying to sit down by a couple’s table I find out there is actually a queue – so I go other place. The other place happens to be Loncheria Alexia & Geovanny. It’s almost full but I get a place at a table and later on a taxi driver joins since I’m sitting alone on a table for four. There is a big group of people at the middle table, all seeming (to me) Spanish speaking customers who have ordered before I arrive to the loncheria. Luckily I’m on both vacation and Mexican time, so I don’t really have any rush. The big table’s food comes when it’s ready – you just have to start eating when the meal arrives – just one of the charms with these loncherias (and Mexican?). The old lady that waiters is just taking it in her own pace – which is just awesome to watch, nothing phases her! 🙂

I order the huevos con toncina, lemonade y una café negro – and just sit down for the wait. As many other times I realise that I really need to learn Spanish – I like both Spain and Mexico and would definitely be able to travel South America if I could speak Spanish. During my breakfast I also ponder and not for the first time, how small the native Mexican Indians are, that meaning their height of course. And also the beauty of the female population – there are many local ladies that are so pretty.

Closer to noon and the clouds disperse a little and I brave the internet forecast to head over to the beach. This time I break my tradition and walk further east on the northern beach. The weather is still warm and mostly without wind, so when a cloud covers the sun or a wind gust comes – it’s rather nice. Around 3:30 pm the weather starts getting worse and I head over to OceanVS for a few beer.

This night I don’t know. Where am I to eat? I google, I search my brain, nothing good comes up. Tomorrow I’ll try to have dinner at Limon (unless it’s fully booked), but that’s tomorrow. When at La Lomitas I get some kind of recommendation for the restaurant Comprades. So after a stop at the main plaza – where I got to see (assuming she was from the US) an American with a baby stroller – with a mini version of a dog. What was the problem? Either the dog is to lazy or the owner is…

I head over to Comprades, and well, this is on the main strip, and it shows on the prices. The food is good and the view is nice since I’m watching all the people walking by. What is not good is, this is the second time I get gratitude added to my bill without asking for it – and it pisses me off. I will add gratitude if the service and the food is good enough, but to “force” me to add gratitude is not the way to have me coming back. This is also the most expensive meal I’ve had and definitely not the best – so I won’t be coming back anyways.

I’ve slept well, as well as possible. My Canadian friends are pleasant to chat with but maybe I should have said good night and went to bed earlier. Good thing is (apart from the fact that a cat seemed to be in distress all night – or it was just horny) that with the earplugs I slept like a baby.

Fourth day, fourth breakfast and the last one in the row of the restaurants on the Mercado plaza – Loncheria Tacos-Tumbras. It’s good eggs, the second best of the four. This day (a Sunday) I also ask for an aqua limón (lemonade) which is really good. I don’t think it’s much or any added sugar in the drink.

After the usual preparations (the smearing of sun screen lotion) at the hotel – I do only use 30 in my face and 15 on the rest of my body – I head over to the beach. It is real crowded. I’m guessing more tourists and more locals on the Sundays. It was 29 degree celcius yesterday, it is 29 degree celcius today. I finish my 1L bottle of water after 2½ hours in the sun – it’s just pouring out of me! Around two pm I’m finished but I do hang out another hour – because it does not feel as if I’m getting any sun at all – even if the sweat is heaving out of me by the bucket. On the way back to the hotel I walk the beach west and then south. There are a lot of people here!

A bit later I leave the hotel, a little earlier than usual but… I walk the walk and stop around the ferry terminal just to check out the “tourists”. After getting bored of this, I end up at the main square and just sit down checking out the local flora which consists of locals and tourists. A few food stands have set up and looks nice – if you have not tried out the food stands, well that’s a recommendation, though knowing Spanish is a good thing for these.

I head over to Javi’s Cantina since I’ve not only read about it but also heard about it. Of course, it’s a Sunday and I’ve not reserved a table – but I’m alone and can sit at the bar. I get some help from André – who I think is a bartender. I order the daily special which is sort of a grouper in a vegetable cover with rice. It’s nice, it’s the first time I eat fish on the island – but is it worth the price? No, not for me. I could do with traditional Mexican food for 1/3 of the price and the same taste essentials.

I end the day early and decide to watch another move from the list.

I’ve already mentioned the door, did I also mention the non-existing sound-proofing?No? Thus, I woke early by the sound of my neighbours leaving for breakfast. A little bit later I, myself, left for breakfast, heading for the Mercado plaza and this day the Longeria San Martin. This one is so far the least best out of the thee (of four) that I’ve tried on the square.

The weather is a lot better today so I head over to the beach earlier. And, it’s warmer, real warmer today compared to yesterday. The sweat is pouring down, all along my body, even when I’m laying down flat on the beach. It’s only supposed to be 28-29 degree Celsius according to the app, but it sure does feel hotter. I do manage six hours and for the first time I do finish the 1 litre of water bottle before heading back to the hotel. But before getting there I stop at a Roosters for a cup of coffee.

Going out for dinner I head out for the main square and the basket ball court. Unfortunately only kids are playing at the moment so I continue the way down the island towards the restaurant I’m aiming for. When passing the restaurant it’s full of people (even though I see a table I could fit in on). So instead of stopping I continue, since I’ve not yet been this way down so far. Not much has happened since last, maybe a little bit of fixing up the buildings but not much more. I do say hi to a couple of kids and some adults sitting in their living rooms (that’s how it is right, here down I Mexico – due to the heat you have the doors and windows open). Coming back the same road I decide to stop at La Lomitas for dinner. Since I’m alone I get a table right away. It’s sort of the same as I remembered it 1½ year ago, but more expensive and more people – a lot more people. I try the Pollo Mole (sort of a chicken with a chocolate sause) and a cerveza, the meal is really good. I end up next to a American/Canadian couple and have a good time of it since they’ve both been living on the island a while and know what’s been happening and what’s stayed the same.

I do feel a little worried since a lot of people stand outside waiting to get a table – a problem I would guess due to that “travelers” are blogging about their experiences – me being one of them. The food and the experience are sort of the same, meaning that the food is really nice but the experience is somewhat dimmed due to that the restaurant is filled with tourists and having some what of a line outside waiting to get in as well. Still, I do get reminded of Sofia, and to be honest, it’s not the first time that I do being on the island. Lying on the beach hearing the airplanes above I do think that it’s Sofia piloting the aircraft, looking down on me.

A bit later I’m back at the hotel and meet up with my Canadian friends, Ronnie, his wife and friend. We end up talking loads, drinking the same and just having a blast!

The door is not fully whole, meaning that are cracks in the door you use to look through it. Oh well, it’s a fairly cheap hotel. I head over to the mercado plaza for breakfast and sit down at Loncheria Alexia & Geovanny. I order the scrambled eggs but today with bacon. I seem to do a good performance since very old waitress keep asking me things in Spanish. I answer all questions with “Si” – but have no idea what that’ll lead to. The scrambled eggs are way better than the ones yesterday. I’ll try out all four loncherias on the plaza and see which one I’ll like the best.

Before going back to the hotel (and I’m not in a real hurry since the weather is not so good, a lot of clouds) I go first to the main square grocery store to buy some beer and snacks, then to the liquor store for more tequila – it’s Friday and who knows when I’ll have time and opportunity to buy     tequila again?!

Since the weather is not that nice I do take my time, putting on the 30 sun screen lotion. After noon the sun do appear through the cloud and I get down to the north beach. It’s a bit warmer today and I keep on using my sun screen lotion (except for that part of my back that I just can’t reach), but it does not feel like anything’s happening. Then again, if I do something stupid, like stop using the sun screen, I know what’ll happen – I’ll get a sun burn, as usual. Maybe I’ll continue the 30 block for today and tomorrow before going down to 15 which I also have.

After four hours the clouds are coming in and I go back to the hotel. Afterwards it does seem that I chose the correct time to leave the beach – since not long after I leave the beach, the rain comes, and down it comes, real good!

Later on for dinner I wander the streets, not knowing where to head. I check out a few places on the way towards Olivia’s which I’ve read some about. It looks to be fairly full, even though I see empty tables here and there. I only get a place at the bar, which may show that the restaurant is booked, or they just don’t want to place a single person at a two person table, but it looks promising for me any ways. After a recommendation from a waiter, I order the olive chicken dish, which is nice but it would have been ever better with some bread or tortillas to get all that nice sauce. To my surprise they also have brews from the Isla Brewery and the double IPA Mucho Macho – which is an awesome brew. I get to chat with the owner of Olivia (or rather one of them). Both of the owners are Israeli (married) that moved to Isla Mujeres 15 years ago. I also chatted up (not to hard since she was like standing right in front of me for my duration on the restaurant) my bartender/waitress/hostess as well. Her name was Diana (see, this one actually presented herself), who originally was from the mainland (not Yucatan) but now lived on the island with her American boyfriend/husband whom I later got to be presented to. Diana and her husband also own and run a loncheria “Madera Food and Art” on the middle of the island. Let me see if I can visit them later on (sort of mon-sat, 11 am to 5 pm).

Back at the hotel I decide to watch a movie (from the IMDB top 250 list) and choose Whiplash, to which I fall asleep. So when I wake, I restart the move and finish it before lights out.

It’s really hot and moist and the hotel room will only let the AC be on when you are in the room. So getting a good temperature to sleep in is not easy to start with. It will probably take a few days to find a perfect sort of middle road. Thus – I didn’t sleep very well and awoke early needing to use the WC. This went as expected, using the WC that is. What did not go as expected was that the water tank was not full and it was hardly refilling. I had noticed that the water pressure was a little bad, but I know this to be sort of a fact on the island, since they actually don’t have any fresh water supply, instead they are dependent on filtering the sea water for drinking, washing and what not. This though, was not good. I needed to be able to flush the WC. Another thing, except for the room being to hot, WC not working correctly, was that I had gotten quite thirsty… I missed buying water last night when I arrived and it’s not really recommended to drink the tap water. So not a really good first morning right – but honestly – problems for the industrialised world – right! And easily fixed.

I knew of course approx. where to go for breakfast, but wanted to explore a little since some things must have happened since last I was here. This time I actually did go into the local market – and was a little disappointed. Then again, if I had done what I told myself the last time and learned Spanish – everything might have been different. When walking out the other side of the market (it’s an “inside” market) you come to a small, let’s say, square. Here there are three different breakfast & lunch restaurants – location 1, 2 & 3 (there is a fourth but I’ve not seen it open). This day, Letty’s, was the choice. For “late” (approx. 9.30 am) breakfast, I chose the huevos revueltos con chorizo y una vas ozumo de naranjo (so, scrambled eggs with sausage and a glass of orange juice). The eggs came with rice, beans and tortillas. So I was real full after my breakfast.

I continued my first day of exploring and did find a few new bars and restaurants along the way. I also had a few other other things in mind, such as a beach bag, some water for the room (which had a fridge) and of course some Tequila. I walked down the back streets towards the public square (which have the basket ball court) looking for a shop to find some kind of beach bag. Closing in on the square I gave in and said hola to one of the tourist shop owners. He did not have what I was looking for, so he called on the guy right across the street. He didn’t really have what I was looking for either, but – found something, his “last” (hidden behind everything else) awesome bag for 250 pesos. You all know how I am at haggling – for shit, that’s the correct term. But I asked for 200 pesos, just for the heck of it. It was accepted and right away I felt as is if should have said 100 pesos. Still, I needed a bag. Before heading back to the hotel I got some water and also a bottle of Cazadores (tequila if you did not follow).

The first day on la playa and I need to be careful. I’ll probably get a sun burn, but if I can make it a little bit easier then the better, so I make sure to use that 30 sun screen all day, a lot – but of course missing a bit on my back – where I can’t reach. I end up at the north beach and after some time I notice I’ve happened upon a hive of middle aged americans – and somehow, most of the women are, let’s be sensitive, a little bit on the heavy side. I’m not perfect, definitely not, and on the heavy side as well. But I can and will do something about it. There are of course younger americans, latinos and Europeans to lay my eyes on, but the sound of my beach neighbours are… difficult.

Later on we get rain out of an almost blue sky and then the wind picks up and blasts me, even though I’m laying down on a towel on the beach. Therefor I decide to get up and visit OceanVS for a cerveza and a tequila.

The evening starts with a little more exploring, but the town is small and not much has happened. Even though it looks as in few years things have happened, since construction is ongoing here and there. I do check on some of the places I had in mind but it’s just too many people out (I might be a bit early since it’s only about 7 pm). There is one place that I pass, with no people in it and three of the staff sitting by a table. I enter and get a menu, which is the regular type of Mexican menu. But. Something is wrong. Nothing’s happening in the kitchen and the staff is just sitting there. So I leave. Instead I head over to Tres Mentiras for a couple of Isla brews, this time testing the Claro Que Si (Blonde) and Cruda Ayuda (Ginger). Later on I get a little bit too hungry and decide to go to Qubano. Right away I go to the bar since it’s nicer when you are alone. After a small chat with the waitress I order the Qubano sandwich. It was awesome the last time I was there but also since the waitress tells me, when asked about the sandwich and a new dish they are promoting on the menu, that the sandwich is the best. So I enjoy the food, a brewski and the sights, like the waitress daughter that work the bar. The bartender seem to have a thing with the kitchen boy.

When thinking about it, I do believe that I met both the waitress and her daughter last time I was at Isla Mujeres – and her daughter was as beautiful then as she still is. The indian heritage do wonders in some of the population.

Back at the hotel I strike up a conversation with an older fellow, his wife and her friend – all from Canada. We sit down and have a nice chit chat about sort of everything.

I had ordered a taxi for 5:45 am – because I needed to be in time since I did not know how long time it would take to the airport, time to baggage drop, security check and all. Turns out I was way out, that is way early, but then again, better to be early than to miss my flight which would be a bother. I did get stopped in the security check for my bag but I don’t actually know why – they never said, only looked through my bag. It could have been the fruit I’d brought for the flight. I did make it inside and the terminal is very small and easily navigated so I had time for a breakfast sandwich before boarding.

The boarding procedure was, interesting, to say the least. First off the pilots were delayed from one or two different domestic flights, so the boarding was already delayed according to plan. For the actual boarding the priority and families with kids went first of course. Then came the rest, at least they tried to organise it by having the aisle seats entering last (which I was one of) which was logical. The to me not so understandably was that there was one of the staff checking passports and boarding cards, at least until there were perhaps a third of the passengers left to board. After that another of the staff started helping out getting the passengers onboard. This I believe was one of the reason we were later than planned (independent on the pilots of course), and when you are late enough to start taxiing out, you’ve probably missed your slot and we had. We had to wait for some time on the runway, not hours, but a while. Luckily I was not in a hurry, this is my vacation and I’ll make do with a delay.

The flight itself was rather slow, I had some time to read, watch a movie (Into the Wild), eat my brought fruits and nuts as well as a couple of whiskeys. At the later part of the flight I got to talking with the couple next to me. They were heading to Cancun for the first time and to a resort in the hotel zone. They had somehow won the trip and it was also their first time on a resort. The fellow worked in construction and the girlie in the fishing industry – even though they lived inland, approx. 600 km north of Vancouver.

The Mexican migration was even easier than the Canadian and it feels as if the US could learn a thing or two from these two countries. A quick pick-up of my bag and through customs and I’m in Mexico. Viva Mexico!

I bought an ADO ticket to Cancun downtown for 75 pesos and went outside into the warmth – AWESOME! It was as I remembered it outside of the terminal, full of taxi drivers trying to pick up a ride. Knowledgeable and experienced as I am, being here a second time – 🙂 – I went straight for the ADO buses. I had to wait about half an hour but chatted up a girl visiting friends in town – from a previous time when she had been studying in Cancun. Found out this way that not everyone coming to Cancun is trying to use the local (small) buses – since they are a little confusing.

After a few minutes waiting on the bus another lady (maybe that sounds a bit weird, she was most likely younger than me) came up asking for help – she needed a mobile with data traffic since she had forgotten hers at home. Since I’d just payed for 500MB of data I let her use my phone.

The bus came when it was still light outside, but it soon became dark and the drive did take some time due to the Cancun traffic – I wonder if there are times when there are no traffic jams in this area. From ADO downtown central I directly went for a taxi, and yes, I should probably not have paid the 100 pesos but I just wanted to get to the ferry. In the end, perhaps, it was good that I didn’t haggle since after buying the ferry tickets (150 pesos one way – but you always buy return), the ferry was unloading and 5 minutes later I was on the ferry to Isla Mujeres.

I quickly found the hotel (the island is very small and I had not forgotten everything) and checked in with Carlos. I got up to my room which was without balcony and extremely hot. I quickly checked the room, unpacked what I needed to and stashed my valuables into the safe – which could not be locked. So, you all remember how a hotel room safe looks like. Small, a door, a keypad – that’s it, right! No – not everywhere, here it’s more old school and does not have a keypad, so before managing to lock it I had to run down to Carlos. I even had to run down to Carlos a third time before heading out – since I could not for my life understand how to lock the door. It was real simple. Press the lock button on the inside and then close the door.

I knew exactly where I was heading, Tres Mentiras, for some Isla brewery beer and a bit of a food. I had a special (three tacos and a cheap beer), tequila and La Mordida (IPA). I was tired and warm and just hung out. Later on a family of three sat down by the table beside me and I just had to talk to them since they were trying (unsuccessfully I would say) to play UNO with two players – and with incorrect rules. Thus before heading back to the hotel I joined one hand of UNO and helped them along the way with at least some of the rules.

We had decided already last night that I would visit UBC during the day and also join Vera’s class for the day, but I did not get up or leave with Fred & Vera as they left for work. Instead I waited a bit before getting up and getting ready. I also re-packed my bag to make sure everything would fit. Of course, that should not be a problem since I had not bought anything and had left the Kexchoklad stash with Vera. Later on I took the short walk down to UBC in a nice type of weather for Vancouver, a little bit on the chill side (above freezing) but sunny. I walked past the UBC golf course which looked nice and I got a little bit of an itch to try it. I walked through campus with a lot of apartment buildings which looked real nice. I got to the meeting place, Fred & Vera’s working place well in advance before Vera’s class so I got a coffee at Tim Horton’s and sat down to check my e-mail and other stuff. Here I decided to check in my flight for tomorrow and to make sure that I could check my luggage as well – since this could only be done on the airport or online 24 hours before the flight. To my surprise I needed my passport to check in… why? I don’t really know, but fortunately I had my passport information on other places since my passport was not with me for the day.

A little bit later I met up with Vera to join her class. This was interesting! Not only the class itself but also how kids behave nowadays in class. A lot of them were not paying attention and were chatting away on their laptops with all other stuff than the class. Fortunately Vera did a good job and some of the students were active and seemed like they wanted to learn. After the class we met up with Fred and I got to see their lab on 4^th floor. Then we went for lunch at the Bean place (a coffee joint). A while later Vera and Fred left me and I sat down just surfing, doing stuff I had not been able to do for the last couple of days – no work though! 🙂

Me and Fred where to meet up and get back to the apartment since Vera had taken her bike (as usual) to work, so I went back to the Forestry department and waited a bit, but time took it’s toll and the weather was nice, so instead of waiting to take the bus I walked back to the apartment myself.

Later on we all three met and took the bus down to a very specific, a favourite of Fred & Vera, brewery – the 33 Acres Brewing Company. A real nice and small brewery tap room right in the centre of (whatever part of) town – 15 W 8^th Ave, Vancouver. We all ordered their pizza which was produced in a food truck parked just outside the brewery, this was I think one of the best pizza’s I’ve ever had and it all had to do with the produce and specially the crust. I ordered a flight to be able to test as many brews as possible for the last night in Canada. At the end, we were all a little tired and drunk and headed home, me after having tasted Sunshine (Wit), Euphoria (Belgian triple), Nirvana (IPA), Ocean (West Coast Pale Ale), Echo (Session IPA), Onyx (Black IPA) and Cerise (Sour).

Before going back we headed for Whole Foods – for me to buy some fruits for the 6h long flight and for Fred to buy some coffee, as well for Vera to purchase some beverages on the liquor store close by. The Whole Foods was definitely a store that I would have used if I lived and worked in Canada – it was just awesome, even if a little bit pricey. Back in the apartment I fixed up the last couple of things for the early trip to Cancun.

I had an awesome time visiting Vera & Fred here in Vancouver and who knows, perhaps I’ll visit them again, late summer.

I woke as early as Vera was fixing to go to UBC, even though I did not rise until she’d left. At that time I woke slowly with my book and as well googling what to do for the day since Fred had not really any decisive plan for it. I started by looking for things to do and well, I don’t really like to pay for entering parks, so those options went away. I looked at the science fair, but it was sort of the regular Riley’s world. I did find some art galleries around town that supposedly was good, but then again… I did finally decide on, that if we were going to do something during the day that did not only involve food, drinks and socialising, then the Vancouver Art Gallery might be a good idea. With this in mind I also found a couple of diners in Gastown (old name of Vancouver) and decided that we’d try the Catch 122 Café Bistro (122 W Hastings St, Vancouver) – all of course without having talked to Fred.

Fred sort of woke around 9 am and after some coffee we got talking about what to do for the day. He was not that fond of the idea of the Vancouver Art Gallery, but he let that slide after trying to google up something different. We did decide on going the Catch 122 for brunch though and headed there by bus. The diner is rustic in a fashioned way, a little bit loud but acceptable. The menu was not that comprehensive, which is good and both me and Fred chose the classic brunch (I also ordered some biscuits just because it sounded really nice). After a delightful brunch which was good and to recommend we headed out into down town. We didn’t have anyplace to be or time to be there and I could feel that Fred was not up for the Art Gallery. Thus we walked around a bit and Fred led me to a specific store that Otto & him had felt would suit me – it was a tourist trap/or souvenir store. So, Otto does not seem to know me that well and Fred was just being a bad boy. Walking the streets we got to experience the steam powered clock in Vancouver, supposedly one of the few left in the world.

We decided to walk east, which would take us through “China Town” that Fred told me was not really a correct term for it anymore since the Chinese population did not want to keep it that way. On the way there we went through some other type of neighbourhood where a lot of homeless were receiving the daily lunch. Not something special, I’m just not used to seeing so many homeless (and some were high on something) at the same place at the same time. Then again, maybe that’s because I’m just not regularly in those hoods. After having passed “China Town” we actually entered the quarters were the Chinese live and you could definitely see it on the stores and the people around us. Further on (we actually had somewhat of an idea on where we were heading) we came into neighbourhoods that were, let’s put it “a little bit poorer”. Since we were looking for brewery pubs (or tap rooms really) I shouted out when I saw the first one. It looked real seedy and Fred just straight out refused to enter, thus we continued our search. Later on we came to an intersection and Fred was a little confused on where we were going go – I was watching the Brewery on the other side of the road but didn’t want to mess up what planning he was having, so I said nothing. A few minutes later he looked up from his phone and looked over the street and saw the Strathcona Beer Company. Oh well, since we were a little cold, and thirsty, we headed over even if this bar looked a bit seedy as well from the outside. To our big surprise the inside was quite different and we had one of their brews – NE IPA.

We decided to just have that one beer at this brewery, not that it was a bad beer, it was really nice IPA, but just because we wanted to discover more breweries. So we headed out again, this time with the direction of Commercial street. A little bit later Fred had another check on his phone and we discovered that we could go one of two ways, back or forward. We chose back! A bit later after having crossed a somewhat busy street we entered the Strange Fellows Brewing tasting room. Here we both ordered a flight, I tried out the Bayard (Saison), Ernest (EBS), Nocturnum (Black IPA) and Third Eye (Triple IPA). We also had a spicy beer sausage and sat down to taste and just hang out. Unfortunately it was a little cold in the tasting room, but as the Scandinavians we are we just shut up about it. After the tasters and a short chat with Vera, we decided to do one more brewery, then pick up some food stuff and cook at the apartment for Vera. We continued our walk, this time passing the same busy street which had become even more busy and actually getting to Commercial street. Here we went to a place that Fred had seen from the outside when Otto was visiting, the St. Augustine’s Craft Brew House. This was not a brewery. This was sort of a sport bar with restaurant and a lot of beer on draft. Therefor we decide just to try one out and get going. I chose the Galaxior (Double IPA) and Fred the Trash Panda (IPA), both from Parallel 49 Brewing Company. After that we took the bus with two stops to shop for groceries before arriving at the apartment. We fixed up some tacos and tortillas for all of us before saying good night.

Vera got up quite early and it seems that I’ve now adapted to the time zone, at least for how many hours I need to sleep, which meant that I woke after approx. seven hours. After breakfast we all started to pack up the gear for the day. I was not really sure on what would happen more than that we would go to Squamish with winter clothes, skies and snow shoes. We packed up in the car and headed out, which meant going through Vancouver down town before exiting the greater Vancouver area. A little more than an hour after that, having traveled along the water and passing Furry Creek and Britannia Beach we arrived at the Sea to Sky Gondola base camp. We arranged all our equipment, for example I got to borrow a pair of skiing trousers from Fredrik which I switched into from my jeans (only pair of long trousers brought on the trip). I also got the information that Vera would not join me and Fredrik, instead she would go skiing while me and Fredrik would go trekking.

A short trip up the mountain in a gondola (or ski-lift), we arrived at the top camp and our paths diverted. Me and Fredrik started walking along the Al’s Habrich trail and he told me where he’d planned for us to go. Since I had no idea how long that would be or how difficult, I could just follow him in his foot steps. The weather was fairly clear at that point with a temperature of a few degrees above zero. It started out good, not difficult at all – but it did not take long until I started huffing and puffing, and we had just started. After a while we put on the snow shoes when it became difficult to climb the snowy path in our boots. We reached the Marker 18 and the Viewpoint and at that time I’ve already had to stop a few times to catch my breath but it was still a nice trek and the nature with the snow was beautiful. The viewpoint showed the community of Squamish along with their international airport (featuring one runway). We continued the path but soon after begun having difficulties since not many visitors had traveled the path further on since the latest snowfall. Fredrik had been there before and was confident where we would go, so he took once more lead and tread a new path in the deep snow. I had thought that the trek was difficult before this started, I had definitely been wrong, this was way worse. But I could not give up now, we were at marker 24 and had only 11 more to go to the next viewpoint. A number of turns later and many height meter up and we arrived to marker 35. Unfortunately the weather had become a little bad and all we could see was clouds and fog. Still we had arrived and we were both hungry, luckily Fredrik had fixed sandwiches and water for us to nibble on. At this time, the idea was to continue even further up the mountain, but seeing the weather and my condition at that point, we decided to go back down. Besides, we needed to be down before the last gondola left (at 5 pm) unless we wanted to walk down the last part of the mountain as well. In the beginning of the descent it was difficult since it was completely different to navigate the snow shoes, as well as we had to walk in our own freshly made path. Later on when we came down below marker 18 where a lot of other visitors had been the going went easier. We arrived to the top camp early and in luck the sun was showing between the clouds. At this time I was soaking wet of sweat and real tired and frozen as well. We grabbed ourselves something warm to drink (chocolate for Fred and coffee for me) to wait for Vera to arrive as well.

Vera arrived a bit later and got a hot chocolate as well before we headed down the mountain in the gondola and went for a short drive to Squamish for dinner and some beer the local brewery – Howe Sound Inn and Brewing. Here we all ordered hamburgers and beer and I finally got to taste an awesome IPA in Canada (sure it was a triple, but still). Ascension triple IPA was really good, then a small taste from the Devil’s Elbow IPA which was not really to my taste buds, but the Double IPA was really nice as well.

Heading home a few hours later I fell into a slumber in the backseat and did not really wake up until we closed in on Vancouver. All of us where tired from the activities this day and after taking care of the equipment and ourselves we were ready for bed.

So we decided that we would get up around 9-10 am, but I awake around 8 am and can not fall asleep again even though I’m still a bit tired. Not much to do about it though but to get up start the day. After a while when I believe my hosts need to get up I fix some coffee for us all and try to awaken them – without luck (I could of course barge in on them but I don’t know how they sleep and don’t want get too much of a surprise). Later on after we’re all up and have had some coffee we’re making plans and going on and on, back and forward. Finally we decide to go for a morning walk and then a brunch. It’s a lovely sunny day when we walk down to Spanish bay and the beach, it’s really so warm in the sun that I end up only in my t-shirt (on my upper body of course). In the end we end up on a place I found an google, The Oakwood Canadian Bistro (2741 W 4^th Ave, Vancouver). They have seating on outside and since it’s so warm and nice weather we sit down there for our brunch. The brunch menu is not that big but it’s difficult to decide anyways since everything sound so good – and it turns out that it actually is that good as well. Well recommended to try out if you are in the neighbourhood.

After brunch Vera leaves us to go to work and me and Fredrik takes the bus, first downtown which seems to be vibrant with a lot of people compared to what I’ve experienced so far. Then after a bus change we end up in Stanley Park which is sort of a state park “in the middle” of Vancouver. The warmth described earlier is still in the air, but only when being in the sun and it soon becomes cold in the shade. Still it’s a nice walk and the park is probably packed with people on summer days. We walk to one of the sightseeing’s in the park, the totem poles, which are recently created totem poles for show in the park. I look in on the gift shop right there beside the poles, but I decide not to by anything, not even a shot glass to Vera as a present. We continue along the bay and soon end up on the downtown side which still is bustling with people. Then again we’re sort of in the middle of the tourist part of downtown. We pass the Steamworks brewery, but it’s been decided that we are you for the Yaletown Brewing Company, so we keep walking. Fredrik tells me that some parts of the town between Downtown and Yaletown that we are walking through is sort of “unfriendly” at least at night time. But it’s not night time and we end up at the brewery after some time – as always thanks for Google Maps.

At the brewery it’s not that many customers but it’s loud (I’m getting old I guess), the music is way to high turned up making people yell. Still, we’re here and we need a beer, so I go for a flight to test as many as possible as usual and try out the Roundhouse Wheat, Loading Bay IPA, Mosaicos IPA and Crown of Thornes Wee Heavy Ale. Finally an IPA worth the name! It ends up with a regular Loading Bay IPA as well before we head back home when the time has already become 7 pm.

We take the train down to Broadway City hall before changing to bus and after a short bus ride Fredrik leaves me since he needs to go to UBC to execute some work before Sunday. I continue on for a while to end up close to the apartment and to a Safeway to do some grocery shopping for the evening meal which will be meatballs and potatoes with lingonberries and quick pickled cucumber. When I get home Vera helps me with preparing the meal by socialising with me and having some Canadian wine. Unfortunately the time at the lab drags out too long for Fredrik and me and Vera have to eat without him. But he does get back before the food is too cold and we can at least plan for Sunday to go to Squamish.